Sunday, December 13, 2009

Good-bye

Suddenly it's time to say goodbye. Three and half months' worth of experiences, challenges, and learning in Ghana, and I'm at a loss at how to sum it up in a final blog post (literally, while most of my posts have flowed quite easily, it's difficult this time to find the right words). For the sake of those reading this post who will never come to Africa, I suppose I should talk a little about the misconceptions people in America have about this continent.

People don't live in trees here. Africans are in many ways no different from people in any other region, especially the US (to a rather disappointing degree, actually. The notion of "cultural diversity" takes on a peculiar meaning here.) Nor are people fresh out of the bush. Ghana urbanizing at a shocking (and unsustainable) rate, and has been since before independence. Ghanaians see all the images on TV that we see, and people here listen to Ne-Yo, Lil' Wayne, and every other artist popular in America (and like music in America, most people listen to crap here). There are many wealthy people in Ghana, a result of the immense economic growth in most African countries that has favored a small wealthy minority of people and in turn greatly increased inequality. Children go to schools, and for every child with a swollen belly you see at least an equal amount of children who are well-nourished. Africa is, in many ways, quite modern (and notice I use Ghana and Africa almost interchangeably, since the country that was the epicenter of Pan-Africanism in the 1950s and 1960s has had as conventional a history as any African country).

Yet exploitation and underdevelopment has taken its toll on Ghana, just like the rest of Africa, and the fact that Africa re-gained her independence only a generation ago means she has one foot in tradition and the other in modernization. The result is a tenuous society that sustains a lot of friction as people are forced to become more and more like Americans socially, economically (though still incomparably poor compared to us), and politically. Some here are trying to preserve the very traditions that are endangered, but it is a fight against the future in a way. "Globalization" gives Third-World countries like Ghana no choice but to develop the way the West wants them top develop, with no consideration of what ramifications there are to what my mentor in high school would call "cultural imperialism" (I would highly encourage those interested in how this change came about to read my Independent Study Project, posted at the bottom of my previous post).

So Africa will trod on, as the West hypocritically encourages her to develop while pretending to wring its hands at the loss of everything that made Africa wonderful for thousands of years. I believe some will be preserved and survive, but some will and already has disappeared as dances, songs, and stories fade out of existence. Again, I highly encourage everyone reading this to come see Africa for yourself. Africa is an ancient place, and she will survive this current threat. But to truly understand what I'm talking about you have to come and see it for yourself.

I hope people learned something from this blog I wrote this semester. I only managed to include a small portion of what I experienced, but what I wrote I wrote to help people back home understand what is happening in Africa and what it means to be an American in a continent where so many live on less than a dollar a day. Our world is one of Facebook, iPods, iPhones and Blackberries, laptops, cars, television, and all those things. I hope Americans can remember that beneath all those layers there is something called a human being screaming to be recognized. If nothing else, I hope the reader truly understands how lucky and unlucky they are. Lucky to live in the land of opportunity that most of world resents yet desires so strongly to live in, and unlucky to be sheltered from the real world, where humanity was born and is struggling to endure in the wake of so much de-humanization.

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Winding Down

And suddenly my time in Ghana is almost over. I realized awhile ago that my favorite word in the English language is "bittersweet," and that is indeed the feeling I have experienced in the past few days. Just like before I came for the semester, I am torn between the friends I have here (though then it was in America) and the prospect of going a place I've been dreaming of going to (this time, it's home). I haven't really written about it, but I've made a lot of friends here in Ghana, many of whom I will dearly miss.


In any country the vast majority of people are normal, flawed people who make good, bad, and selfish decisions alike, but every country also has a small minority of people whose goodness and kindness shock those of us constantly mediating between selfishness and being good as well. I've been lucky enough to meet a lot of people that fall in the former category here in Ghana. It is especially fortunate considering that the old ways of kindness and hospitality are dying in the midst of "modernization." In fact, almost everything in Ghana is that is traditional and unique from the West is rapidly deteriorating, and it is being replaced by televisions, cell phones, and music videos. The central irony that those of us who come to Ghana to find something different form America is that we find many people here want nothing more than to be Americans. How can you explain to people that what they view as the ideal is really often empty and meaningless, especially when America is number one in the world, so to speak?



It all seems so backwards, that Americans think Ghana's old ways are better while Ghanaians think America is the greatest. I can't blame Ghanaians for wanting something more than what they have here. The television tells them America is the best, where everyone is rich and no one starves. It's almost impossible to explain to them that America is the wealthiest country in the world yet half the people are crazy, depressed, and/or overmedicated, and the other half are trying to ignore those very crazy ones who seem to be everywhere. It's sad, but the choice in this world seems to be being rich in culture and poor materially or rich materially and poor in culture (and for those who believe that the Core Curriculum is "culture," learn some African dance or drumming and see if you still think that).



In any case, that's the way it is. We all have to accept our roles, and for me in the end I am an American, even if I spend much more time in Ghana. With that said, those interested in Africa would do well to come here as soon as possible, because you can read every book in the world on Africa and you still wouldn't be prepared for being here. You have to see it for yourself. The fact that Africa's old ways are dying makes it all the more urgent that you come, the sooner the better. I'll try to post one last time this weekend right before I leave for JFK on Sunday night. In the meantime, here's a link to a Google Document that has my Independent Study Project on Kwame Nkrumah, Pan-Africanism, and de-colonization.

Part 1:

http://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AZyHAJZXkObCZGhrNjJjY25fMTZnc2N0NWo4bg&hl=en

Part 2:

http://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AZyHAJZXkObCZGhrNjJjY25fMTVkN245cGRnag&hl=en